Відео

Very nice work. I need to make one myself. He he another day

I like the way you work not rushing & explaining clearly the process.

Looks to be a simple project, think I’ll build one for myself.

Great mod of the rotary table and cutting the gear, would you consider going over the electrical installation from the Pi to the stepper motor, also could you use an arduino. thanks in advance

I noticed on the one I made that the cradle sometimes moved once I centred it as its very easy to move when putting the piece to bend in, Not easy to clamp I fixed this by putting in some recessed magnets in the underside of the base, not super strong but enough to let it move when centring and also enough to hold it in place against accidental small movement when in use

Great project.

Nice work Lee, you are very good at videoing these simple projects that are extremely useful in every shop. Great work, cheers!

You have built a brake die. The top is called the punch, the bottom is called the die. Don't know what material you used, but you could have used 4140 then flame harden the edges for wear resistance. Good job.

Great work-holding contrivance there (18:32)! Like I say, it’s not what you make in your video’s that’s so fantastic as it is how you make them.

Hi lee good one mate Cheers

I have a magnet permanently fixed on the end my press ram. My steel tools then need no magnets. I also have a magnetic chuck clamped to the press bed for the same reason. Examples can be seen on my rubber blanking and forming demonstrations.

The little hex bolt tightens the bit. What is that called ? My slugger is missing those bolts. I can not tie in the bits .. thank you I could not find that online

A great idea and well executed!

Nice option with the magnets - off to the Lathe I go. I brought a very similar press in Australia 6 months ago and I have been slowly adding some tooling as needed. There are Commercial Pressbrakes in smaller sizes for those without the shop or skills or TIME to make one too, I added a 300mm heavy duty one to mine which is fantastic for up to 3mm plate.

Did you decrease the pockets and magnets before gluing? Do you have links for the glue and the magnets?

Great idea, I need to make a few !

Nice job, that will be handy. I searched for this video because it seemed like a good idea to me too! Thanks for sharing.

Hi Lee. That is a real neat project idea. I imagine, with your niece and husband being new shop owners, you could have enough content material for quite a long time!

The parts you made that you called drills, I call punches. Great video look forward to you next and no, I don’t have a press like that.

I haven't touched a lathe since I was in high school (and I'm pretty close to your age :-), but somehow watching this stuff is very satisfying....

That looks like a good idea. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Thats a great project i need to make some, thanks

Thank you Lee for the drifts. I use them everytime I use my press, they are awesome.

Very helpful Lee! Thanks!

Thanks for the video. You didn't state what material you are using for making these, from the looks of it I'm guessing you are using 4130 or 4140. I'm still having to make myself a set of these as well and was considering just using 4140 and heat treating the ends then tempering to try to keep distortion from happening as much as possible. I have an older model press with a design I haven't seen before in 30 ton and trying to avoid having to turn the ends if I can keep from distorting them.

Glad to see you followed my suggestion. Now you need to make the angled storage rack from tubing in the upper left inside corner. Where you are storing them will be in the way of the garage door pulley when you run the cable to that side for lifting the platen.😮

Excellent idea. Best wishes from Yorkshire England.

You might mention orientation of the magnets should all be the same

How do you keep the drift pins from rusting?

Nice to see you minimised stock purchase!

Does it weld aluminum can?

Better Idea Yet, just buy a trolley designed to have an electric hoist bolted to it for less money than you gave for the Harbor trolley..

Another Mr. Lee project in the works. This makes 4 or 5 now. I trimmed about an 1/8 inch from the bottom of the vee to slide a flat bar under the part to hold it from the the opening in the center of the vice. I have been watching a lot of the older videos and have been making a list of projects for the shop.

Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Honestly, I can't describe how much I appreciate your content. I'm currently in the tech industry and also taken up machining as a hobby! I've wanted to mess with cnc and controlling iot devices using a web ui on my lan. Thanks to you, I think I can finally achieve it!

I have 2013 Tacoma it has the rear view camera but the camera in the tail gate was cut replace it, still won't display on my radio, any advise it's a standard cable 2013

Hi Lee. Nice repair piece. I would say the wood from that bench was well past it's prime! I think I would have welded the joint though, although that would have required some cleanup with a grinder.

I ALWAYS learn something. Thanks, Mr Lee.

I use a locknut arrangement (two nuts) on each 1/4-20 post on the spider I made. I learned the hard way that they can come flying out at high speed without being locked in. Still can’t find one ‘em! Great video, thank you again for what you do. It’s not so much what it is you are working on that is terribly interesting, but “how” you do it. Is Your methods of work and order of ops are always very informative.

Buy yourself a KEYED ball bearing drill chuck to solve tap slippage. When a cutting tool spins in the chuck jaws like you experienced both jaws and tool are being damaged. A keyless ball bearing chuck senses slipping and will tighten down even more and will crack itself with larger taps.

I'm going to get those parts and do what you did! Great tutorial! Just what I needed to know how to wire this stuff up without guessing.

thank you, very helpful.

I can understand why the little nema 17 didn't work. A worm drive is about as inefficient as you can get, so much power is lost through the contact of the worm to worm wheel. A nema 23 with 270 oz torque works great on my BS-0 dividing head 40:1 worm reduction. I bought Steve Ward's (world of ward) stand alone electronic rotary table controller. It has a built in 5.6 amp stepper driver, all you need to buy is your stepper motor and a 24 volt power supply. Of course you need to make your own mount and buy or make a coupling. It has an output that allows you to add a second driver for linear motion as well as limit switches and another output that you could control a solenoid valve or anything else. It corrects any division errors when doing odd number gears so all cuts end up even and you can enter in your tables backlash if you want to do forward and reversing cuts. The second ouput can also be used if you need much bigger steppers and higher voltages. It's dead simple to use to cut gears or machine slots or any type radius cut you like, being able to add a second linear motion axis is great. I use it to drive the X axis on my mill buy you could use it for Y,Z etc. A few minutes of entering your rotary and linear axis instructions and you can sit back and watch while it executes the job. It's only 180 pounds and ships from England. You can also buy the idividual board, box and other components to make the product yourself from him or elsewhere, he offers the software for free. It's even cheaper if you don't mind soldering all the components to the board yourself. Lot's of options for different budget levels. I have no affiliation with him, I spent a lot of time looking for an easy to use stepper control for my indexing head. This required no code or heavy learning curve to use. Once you've got it attached to the rotary table or dividing head you can start cutting gears. It took me about 15 minutes to figure out and enter the setup info for the stepper and another 30 minutes to get familiar with the different indexing options and enter the info to cut my first gear. If you hate the idea of learning CNC or programing an building and programming an arduino then this type of controller is the best option. You can ad different profiles so you can switch the controller from milling machine to lathe or anything else you want to control in just a couple minutes as well. Lots more options I don't recall off the top of my head you might like as well.

I just found your channel because I am trying to find a spring assist lift for my new trailer. That’s probably the most detailed and best videos I’ve seen on installing one. I can tell you probably been a machinist most of your life or you should’ve been. I just retired out of a tool and die shop where I had been a machinist for 41 years and the last 21 years. I’ve also been the maintenance and machine repairman. I do all the repairs in the building, including electrical hydraulics nematics but they tell me I can’t put one of their lips on my trailer because the sides are 27 inches high they’re only recommended for 24 inch high sides. I’m thinking I could just add 3 inches of chain to the end of the cable and it wouldn’t lift all the way to the top, but if it would just get it off the ground in halfway up from level, the rest of the way would be pretty simple to lift, I enjoy your channel and I did subscribe. I hope to have more time to check out more of your videos. I have a UA-cam channel myself on lawnmower and snowblower repair with a little small engine work. Check it out and leave me a comment. I’d like to hear from you. My channel is Jimsfixitshop Jim

It's good to use oil recommended for air cooled engines. Lawn mowers, edgers, dirt bikes, etc., use oils that contain more zinc which sticks to bearing surfaces and makes them less prone to wear. Car oils don't have as much zinc because it clogs the catalytic converters over time. Since mowers, edgers, etc., don't have catalytic converters, the extra zinc is added protection for a long lasting engine. Fram makes a 30w small engine oil that's good for these. I don't know about the 30w conventional though, so I can't comment. It could very well have it, too.

We are in the future, or there is someone out there, video. This has been a life time recurring haunting since ~1966, I always assumed it was designed for super lazy consumers and drives me crazy, like the mold maker or the edges of ends, say in plastic, are not spaced properly so when encountering one it is an ambiguous algebra problem. In other words one has to go into blind man mode to count within a degree or two of the unknown reverse drop downs before being certain that all ready to engage. I've got enough on my mind and get side tracked over a peanut-butter container. I'm a long time electromechanical troubleshooter, even did a left/right lead patent pro se. In an idealistic world they would all drop down at the same position.

That was a great explanation of why we use threads like this. Hope all is well your way! - TZ

Thanks, now you have got me looking for multistart threads. My toothpaste brand has one start, my OJ has two, a tub of working hands lotion has three and a jar of mayonnaise has four.yay! I found them all

Interesting stuff, though I'm having a hard time figuring out where I'd use something like this. I have a vague recolletoin of multi-start being used on lead scerws, or perhaps it was ballscrews, or something like that...

Thank you. Great demonstration.